Apple has announced that macOS 26 Tahoe will be released on Monday 15 September, slightly earlier than had been speculated. Even if you’re not intending to upgrade to that, you might instead be looking at moving from Sonoma to Sequoia, or perhaps dragging your feet and considering Sonoma as it enters its final year of support. This article considers what you should do when preparing to upgrade macOS.

One of the surgeons I worked for in my first internship in hospital taught me an important lesson in life: when considering the outcome of anything that could go wrong, assume that it will go wrong, and prepare for that. When it actually works out better than you planned for, you can enjoy your success.

Emergencies

The worst case is that your Mac dies during the upgrade. Although that’s also the least likely, you need to think through your disaster plan. I ensure that all my most essential files and data are shared or copied up to iCloud so that I could get by for a day or three without that Mac. A recent full backup is also essential: if your Mac needs to go away to be resuscitated, one way or another that’s what you’ll be restoring from.

Upgrades do bring a tiny but significant risk of bricking your Mac in a way that only a full Restore will recover it. Although this can apply to Intel Macs with T2 chips if a T2 firmware update goes wrong, this is more the preserve of Apple silicon Macs. I’ve recently stepped through your options with full details here. Your first DFU Restore is daunting, but once you’ve done one, you’ll realise that they’re not that challenging if you have the right cable and DFU port. When you’ve restored firmware and macOS, you’ll then be restoring from that last backup, emphasising its importance.

In the days before the SSV, when there was only one boot volume and that could so readily be corrupted during upgrades, you also needed to have an emergency toolkit handy to repair an upgrade that went wrong. These days, the whole of the System in the SSV is either perfect, or macOS has to be reinstalled. Minor glitches are almost invariably corrected by restarting after the upgrade has completed, or starting up in Safe mode (remember on Apple silicon Macs that’s performed from Recovery).

Reverting macOS

The other possibility that you should plan for is beating a hasty retreat and reverting to an older version of macOS. Provided that you’re fully aware of the changes to the macOS interface brought in Tahoe, I think this is less likely for those upgrading from Sequoia, but if you’re skipping a version or two you could still find yourself unable to use a vital peripheral or one of your key apps, leaving you with reversion as your only option.

I’m sometimes asked by eternal optimists whether you can revert to your previous macOS simply by using its SSV snapshot. Sadly, snapshots are of no help: the only way back is to wipe and reinstall that macOS.

On Intel Macs, you’ll need to do this when booted from an external bootable installer, which doesn’t have to be on a USB ‘thumb’ drive, but does still require its own HFS+ volume to work. Apple explains this here, and Mr. Macintosh has links to all available installer apps.

Although you can do that with an Apple silicon Mac, if you have a second Mac and the right USB-C cable, it’s usually quicker and simpler to do this by restoring from the appropriate IPSW file in DFU mode, then restoring your files from your latest backup, as explained here. This is particularly valuable, as it also restores the original firmware, which may be the root of your problems. Unfortunately, that doesn’t seem possible with Intel Macs. Once their firmware has been upgraded, the user isn’t able to downgrade it.

Checklist

• Check you’re prepared to use your disaster plan if needed.
• Consider sharing and copying to iCloud to help you use another Mac or device temporarily.
• Make a full backup immediately before starting the upgrade.
• Restart, or start up in Safe mode, if the upgrade leaves your Mac with problems.
• Reverting to an older macOS isn’t trivial, and will require you to restore from your backup.
• Revert an Intel Mac using a bootable external installer.
• Consider reverting an Apple silicon Mac by restoring it in DFU mode, using an older IPSW.

Whatever you choose to do, I wish you success, and hope that your preparations prove completely unnecessary.

Sometimes even the best-kept Macs start acting strangely, and no matter what you try, you can’t put your finger on the problem, and can’t make it go away. This article suggests some potentially radical solutions that should address the most intransigent of problems in Apple silicon Macs.

Hardware?

If the problem lies in a peripheral, or the Mac’s hardware, then everything else is doomed to fail. Start by disconnecting all non-essential peripherals, and if that doesn’t help, run hardware diagnostics from Recovery mode. Those don’t always catch problems, particularly in their early stages, so if you’re not convinced that your Mac is sound and healthy, book it in for your nearest Apple store or authorised service provider to run their more extensive tests.

To run hardware diagnostics in an Apple silicon Mac, start it up in Recovery by pressing its Power button until it displays that it’s loading options, then in the initial Options screen, hold Command-D until the Diagnostics Loader starts. This may require download of the disk image from Apple’s servers before testing can proceed, so a good Wi-Fi connection is important. Once loaded, there’s a hidden option for extended diagnostics that can be triggered by holding the Command-E key combination.

What to reinstall?

At this stage with an Intel Mac, you’d be considering performing a clean reinstall of macOS, maybe even trying to revert to an older version that didn’t show the problem. Although you can still try that in Recovery mode, Apple silicon Macs have a better and more thorough option, to Restore the whole of your Mac’s firmware and macOS. This is performed by putting it into DFU mode, connected to another Mac (either architecture) running a recent version of macOS, and performing the Restore from there.

Apple provides detailed instructions for you to do this yourself, provided you have the necessary second Mac and cable. If you don’t have those, you should be able to get this performed free of charge at an Apple store, or by an authorised service provider.

The cable used mustn’t be Thunderbolt, but plain USB-C. That’s because DFU mode doesn’t support Thunderbolt or its cable. Connect that to the designated DFU port on the Mac you’re going to Restore. That can be found in Apple’s note, or in Mactracker.

You used to have to run Apple Configurator on the second Mac, but this can now be handled through the Finder, where it’s usually the more reliable. Follow Apple’s instructions to Restore the current version of the firmware and macOS, or you can download an IPSW image file for most previous versions through the links on Mr. Macintosh’s site.

Before performing this, you must make a full backup of your Mac’s internal storage, as the Restore process wipes it clean, and you’ll want to restore from that backup afterwards. As this process is going to wipe your Mac, you’ll also want to check through third-party apps and subscriptions that need to be signed out or transferred. Check carefully through the Applications folder to ensure that you haven’t forgotten any that are still valid. Among those is the need to deauthorise your old Mac for Apple media, something you should do using one of its media apps such as Music or TV.

Revive or Restore?

Apple advises trying to revive your Mac first, as it’s a briefer procedure and doesn’t wipe the whole of the Mac’s internal storage. However, if you’re trying to fix a deep-seated problem, only a full Restore will do.

What does a Restore do?

Internal storage in Apple silicon Macs contains additional partitions/containers to those found in Intel Macs or on external boot disks. These store the firmware and other components used early during the boot process, as part of Secure Boot. A ‘clean’ reinstall only replaces the boot volume group, the Signed System Volume (SSV) and Data volume, while a Restore in DFU mode wipes everything including the firmware, and replaces it with fresh copies from the IPSW file.

The end result is that your Mac is running the firmware to match the version of macOS installed, just as it would have been from the factory. It then has to be personalised and reconfigured from scratch once it’s started up. Nothing from its old firmware, macOS or Data volume is left, even the NVRAM, stored in NOR Flash memory, is reset.

Summary

• Hardware diagnostics in Recovery
• Consider extended diagnostics in Apple store
• Back up and prepare Mac
• Restore in DFU mode, using chosen IPSW if desired
• Restore from backup.