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湄洲天后宫

湄洲岛,传说是妈祖林默的故乡。北宋年间,岛上出现了最早的妈祖庙(灵女祠),经历朝扩建为大片宫殿,文革期间全毁,1980 年代后,由散落到各地的香火信徒集资重建的仿宋建筑群。被妈祖信徒们戏称为「东方麦加」……

除了在码头附近的大型祖庙外,湄洲岛上的几乎每个村落,都有各自的妈祖庙,盖的都不小。去不同的堂口进香,也是信仰和交流体系的一部分;尤其是在一些祭日,人们会扛着妈祖像,把所有的庙都逛一遍。

但其中一些庙,路不熟的话,并不好找。于是我上岛时,被唤醒了踩地图之魂,骑着电动车,把所有妈祖庙都找了一遍,标上准确的 GPS 位置。

每座庙的 GPS 位置(WGS 84),由北向南:

地点纬度 °N经度 °E
湄洲祖庙25.09379119.14317
上英宫25.09035119.12628
上林宫25.09007119.12889
上兴宫25.08973119.13972
寨山宫25.08211119.12082
莲池宫25.08169119.12598
回龙宫25.08014119.11606
龙兴宫25.08008119.12268
进福宫25.07523119.11157
湖石宫25.07453119.12075
天后行宫25.07068119.11253
文兴宫25.06453119.12972
白石宫25.06218119.12382
天利宫25.04815119.11863
麟开宫25.04398119.11643
麟山宫25.04026119.11625

大约有一半的妈祖庙,是比较好找的,就在主路的边上,甚至在高德地图就能搜到。但其中也有坑,譬如,我第一个去的是「莲池宫」,按地图上搜到的位置,找过去,却关了门。因为是第一家,我并不知道岛上的庙,是什么样子的,于是以为自己不走运,很多庙不在祭日都会关门;正在遗憾,看到里面仿佛有人,敲门问了问,才发现,这家莲池堂,其实是个耶稣教会………

真正的莲池宫,藏在另一个方向的村子里,穿过几条土路才会看到。所有的妈祖庙,其实都是这种金碧堂皇的样子,平日一直开着门。

岛上还有很多其它的庙:有耶稣教会、有完全不供奉妈祖的佛寺、有很小只的土地庙、关帝庙、海神庙、有家族私姓的祠堂、有看着很像妈祖庙,但不知是做什么的「三一教」……海边的「天后行宫」,在妈祖庙背后,修了个更大一号的如来大雄宝殿,于是感觉并不是很靠谱,有人介绍岛上除了祖庙,有 15 家妈祖庙,就没有把天后行宫算在里面。

但有些神灵,是可以放在妈祖庙的侧位一起供的,譬如,齐天大圣……

有的庙正在修葺,就让妈祖像暂居到村子的土地庙/城隍庙里,因为妈祖更大牌,所以城隍要把中间的位子让出来~

有的已经建好了新庙,于是旧庙广场上,用来晒鱼干。

所有的庙旁边都有戏台,还有很多社区的老年中心,也挂牌建在庙场旁边。但大家也经常直接在庙里活动:织网、打牌……赌金还不小。

庙修的都很精美,但赞助者的签名,就磕碜了点儿。

希望小朋友考出好成绩。

路过其它小庙在举行仪式,搭台唱戏。但感觉不同信徒之间,是有些隔绝的。很多时候问路,几百米外的妈祖庙,对方并不知道在哪里,甚至没听说过。

岛上有很多游客、有夜市、很漂亮的画了彩虹线的海边公路。游客们穿着小清新的样子,打卡拍照。但似乎很少有人会去这些庙里逛逛。似乎是两个世界。

New Work in an Old City

For the past three years I’ve been a fellow at the Council on Foreign Relations in New York, where I finished my book Sparks on dissent in today’s China, while also working on policy issues. It’s been a great experience: I got the chance to work with collegial, interesting thinkers; I moved back to the United States for the first sustained period of time in nearly 30 years; and our family had stability after I was turfed out of China in 2020 and we faced the uncertainties of the Covid era.  For these and many other reasons I’ll always be thankful to the Council for providing me with an intellectual home and a great place to work. 

We would have enjoyed staying on at the Council and in New York but a variety of reasons call us back to Europe and so–to bury the lede–we are leaving New York on July 1 for Berlin (via a summer in Southeast Asia).

Why? Emotionally, I love New York but I have felt what the Chinese call yuanfen (affinity) with Berlin ever since I went there before the Wall fell. After leaving Montreal as a teenager, I didn’t feel at home in many places but Berlin–as messed up as it was and is–immediately felt like home. I spent more than a decade there and it was my base for all the years I spent in China. 

Now we have a great chance to return to Berlin. I’ll be a fellow at the Wissenschaftskolleg zu Berlin. This is modeled on (and in fact its official English name is) the Institute for Advanced Studies, the Princeton-based center for natural and social scientists. I’ll work on my next book there, on religious life in Xi’s China–hint, it has to do with folk religion, pilgrimages, and stick fighting.

Meanwhile, while my wife Sim Chi Yin can be a bit closer to her artistic practice–she’s represented by a gallery there and often works in Europe’s colonial archives. 

In fact, we aren’t flying straight to Berlin because she has a performance in Singapore at the end of August. It’s a one-woman show where she uses her photos, videos, and storytelling to look at memory and forgetting. The show premieres at the national theater, the Esplanade on Aug. 30 . (I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention TICKETS.)

So we’ll go in July, spend some time in Penang, and then she has rehearsals for most of the month. Then in early September off to Berlin for a new chapter in our lives.

 

The post New Work in an Old City appeared first on Ian Johnson.

Transcendence and death — The Chinese perspective

Transcendence and death — The Chinese perspective

Disclaimer: This contains my personal views on religious beliefs (not necessarily formal religions) as an ex-Christian and therefore might cause offense to others, viewer discretion advised

Everyone dies.

The irony is, most humans live as if they are immortal, my explanation is because no one’s conscious mind has experienced unconsciousness, and thus death. It is surprisingly easy to forget that you will, and everyone around you, will one day die. Everyone we see on the streets are typically, not dead. Everyone reading this sentence is definitely not dead. So you walk through you daily life without ever thinking about this one great certainty.

I have an app called WeCroak remind this to myself five times a day. This made me appreciate the things I have much more, but also has created a great fear in me. Will I still be here tomorrow? What if I go to bed and never wake up? Obviousy the logical conclusion is, you won’t have to worry about that if it does happen anyways so don’t worry about it now.

But this wasn’t enough for me. Naturally, I started exploring religious beliefs. Turns out, in some religions, depending on who you are, what you did, and many other things, after you die you go live in a place, either good or bad, that we cannot experience while we are still living. In some other religions, you come back to this world, in some shape or another, also depending on who you are, what you did etc. In some others, you simply die and there is no afterlife.

All of this sounded insane to me. I cannot possibly convince myself to believe that there will be something waiting for me on the other side after I close my eyes for the last time, either that something is good or bad, because no one has ever seen it. I’ve read a couple dozen Christian books of visions of heaven and hell, back when I was still one. They offered many contradictory accounts. Buddhism’s version of coming back to this world, in one form or another did not make much sense to me either, how to we account for the population boom?

I was in a valley of despair. I was going through life without any meaning. What awaits me at the end is unknowable. I cannot choose a religion to believe in to convince me that there is something beyond the end of my life.

All of this fell on me about 2 weeks ago. I fainted, for the first time in my life, at my desk due to overworking. My head smashed against the keyboard. I was typing right before I felt my entire body was disconnected from my head, and I could not feel anything that is beneath my head, not even my neck muscles. It felt like a guillotine experience. I started falling towards the keyboard, without any control over any part of my body, but remained conscious even if I was extremely dizzy. The world started rotating in my eyes. I laid on the keyboard for 15 seconds before I started feeling my body again.

As I was falling, I thought, this is it. I’ve worked myself to death. If only I had more time to figure out more stuff and enjoy life more. Surprisingly, I was still alive. I took a few days off to recover and have a much better work-life balance now.

But what if I really died that day? Did I have any regrets (other than dying this early)? Did I have a good run? Was everything worth it?

In retrospect, I can say that everything has been worth it. 2 weeks after it, I finally figured it out via some very unexpected events.

It was late, I stumbled on a new (only to me) song called 兰亭序. For those not into Chinese culture, Lantingxu is one of the most important calligraphy in Chinese history written in the year 353. That is more than 1600 years ago. The modern song version is by Jay Chou, a Taiwanese singer.

I was in love with the song, particularly a slowed version of it, which made me very emotional. I went on to search for other versions of it, and stumbled on a version that used it as the BGM with edited scenes from the Three Kingdoms tv series showing Zhuge Liang, the chancellor and later regent of the state of Shu Han in that era. He is regarded as one of the most capable and accomplished strategist & statesperson in Chinese history. He died trying to achieve his goals, but he never gave up against overwhelming odds. The video I watched that portrayed his story was extremely moving, and I started crying. The comments show that many felt the same way.

Portrait of Zhuge Liang

Sound familiar? A great historical figure that inspires many across 2 millennia. Someone called Jesus is also someone who inspires many across 2 millennia.

Except there is one key difference.

No one believes Zhuge Liang came back from the dead. A lot of people believe Jesus did.

And that is where the key difference between the religion of the Chinese and other more formal and established religious beliefs lie.

Chinese people believe in a myriad of things. Many contradictory. However one thing remains constant. No one believes with all their heart that there is an after-life. Even if there are made up stories, many even written in history books, about how when an emperor was born, some magical supernatural things happened. Everyone knows they are made up, often at the command of the emperor themselves.

There is no one that can turn water into wine by just snapping a finger. There is no one that can create a road in the ocean without building a bridge or filling in the ocean with earth and sand.

So, does the Chinese believe in gods? No, but yes.

The Chinese believe that mortals who die can do godly things.

Yes, there is nothing after death. Yes, there is no way to avoid it. But no matter who you are born as, it does not necessarily preclude you from becoming anything. 王侯将相宁有种乎 (No one is nobler simply by their birth) was the spirit of the first peasant uprising in China in 208 B.C. Even as a deeply patriarchal society, there has been Wu Zetian(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wu_Zetian), the first and only female emperor who ruled China. No one needs to be given birth by a virgin mother to achieve greatness. No one needs to have riden flying horses to be impactful.

This belief is not regarded as religious belief by many as it lack the structures of a formal religion that the West is more familiar with, but that is the beauty of it. No one needs to communicate with the originator of this belief through a special class of people who interprets ancient texts. This belief is universal, yet personal. It is held in the subsconsciouness.

It is a belief in humankind. In ourselves.

No one will get an after-life? That is ok, just make sure you are using your life for a cause worthwhile.

I don’t know about you, but this feels oddly comforting. As a mortal, I know I do not have the ability to go 40 days without food and water. If that is the only way to transcend death, then I would be out of luck.

But if people who have died, remain dead, have been able to use their human ingenuity against all odds to do things that are so great that their writings are still taught in schools, their stories still make people drop tears, then as long as you are a human, there is hope.

The Chinese does not believe in immortal gods.

Instead, we believe in mortal, fragile, weak humans, who do godly things.

They transcend death by accepting it as their destiny, and fight for a cause worth living for.

Glory to the Godly mortals.

Hell, Politics, and Religion

Some forthcoming talks are helping me think through a new book, which I want to start writing in 2023 once Sparks: China’s Underground Historians and their Battle for the Future is out in September 2023 (more on that in a post coming soon).

One of the talks is at the Asia Society on March 1 and has to do with concepts of hell and the afterlife in China–especially how this played out after the Communist Party tried to destroy most values. Details here.

The second, and more relevant talk to my new book is on the idea of Civil Religion in China. I took a stab at this in early 2023 at a talk at Fordham University and will do so in a more systematic way in March at the Wissenschaftskolleg zu Berlin, aka Germany’s Institute for Advanced Studies.

I’ll be on a podium with Franciscus Verellen, a distinguished historian of religious life in middle-period China (and along with Kristofer Schipper the editor of one of the great recent works of sinological study, The Taoist Canon, which is a magically written and illustrated two-volume companion to the canon, which is essentially an encyclopedia of Taoist thought).

Prof. Verellen will talk about state and religion in classical China and I’ll talk about the concept in the country today, especially as the Communist Party uses it to cement legitimacy.

You can see details of both talks on this site’s “Talks and Media Appearances” page. The German talk will be in German. Both will be posted to YouTube, and I think the German talk will have subtitles.

If you get a chance to hear these and have feedback, please do send me an email at ij@ian-johnson.com I’d appreciate any feedback.

Thanks!

The post Hell, Politics, and Religion appeared first on Ian Johnson.

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