Throughout much of Europe, bread has been a staple food for the whole of recorded history, and has become a symbol of life in both language and visual art.

For the classical civilisations of the Mediterranean, this was embodied in the goddess of Jean-François Millet’s Ceres (The Summer) from about 1864-65. She stands, her breasts swollen and ready for lactation, her hair adorned with ripe ears of wheat, a sickle in her right hand to cut the harvest, and a traditional winnow to separate grain from chaff in her left hand. At her feet is a basketful of bread, with ground flour and cut sheaves of wheat behind. The background shows the wheat harvest in full swing, right back to a group of grain- or hay-stacks and an attendant wagon in the distance.

Bread and its sharing is one of the central symbols of Christian beliefs, most notably in the Last Supper, the meal shared by Christ with his disciples before his crucifixion.

The most famous painting of The Last Supper, and one of the best-known works in the European canon, is of course Leonardo da Vinci’s. Giampietrino’s copy from about 1520 gives the closest impression today of what the original must have looked like. Even this copy has been horribly mutilated: the upper third was cut off, and its width reduced, but at least what remains gives a better idea of the original’s appearance.

Leonardo’s composition wasn’t entirely revolutionary for the time. Previous paintings of The Last Supper had spread the apostles along the length of a table, with Christ at its centre. However, Judas Iscariot was usually placed alone on the near side, his back to the viewer, and sometimes with his bag of silver visible behind his back.

Leonardo shows the moment of surprise and denial when Christ announces that one of those sat around the table would betray him. In this, he was perhaps the first artist to assemble the apostles into small groups, a feature that has been repeated in innumerable images following this. Arrayed along the front of the table is a series of round bread rolls and small glasses of red wine.

After his crucifixion and resurrection, Christ appeared several times to his disciples. In The Supper at Emmaus, painted here by Paolo Veronese, two disciples had travelled on the road from Jerusalem to Emmaus as pilgrims, and recognised Christ as he “sat at meat with them, he took bread, and blessed it, and brake, and gave it to them.”

The painting contains separate passages to cue this narrative: on the far left is an asynchronous ‘flashback’ referring to the journey to Emmaus. Christ is in the centre of the painting, identified by his halo, and in the midst of breaking bread. With him at the table are the two bearded figures of the disciples, dressed as pilgrims and bearing staves. On Christ’s right is a servant, acting as waiter to the group. The onlookers dressed in contemporary costume are an aristocratic Italian family of the day, whose portraits are combined.

Christian rites reiterate the Last Supper in Eucharist, and the blessing of bread plays other roles in its religious ceremonies.

Mykola Pymonenko’s Waiting for the Blessing (1891) shows the scene at a country church in Ukraine at dawn on Easter Sunday. The local population is crowding inside, while the women gather with their Paska, traditional ornamental bread that must be blessed before it can be eaten as a brunch.

Bread appears elsewhere as a symbol of life, particularly in the context of poverty and charity.

Edmund Blair Leighton’s Charity of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary from about 1895 shows a famous woman who built a hospital where she personally served the sick. Born in 1207, she died in 1231 at the age of only twenty-four. Leighton doesn’t show her in a nursing role, though, but handing out loaves to feed the poor.

Elizabeth Nourse painted some social realist works looking at the lives of the rural poor. Among these is The Family Meal from 1891, which was awarded a medal at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893, and is seen here as an engraving in its catalogue. Parents sit with their two young children at an almost bare table. Their meal consists of a pot of soup and the remains of a loaf of what appears to be stale bread. The older child looks expectantly at her mother, who stares despondently at the table. Her husband stares down at his empty bowl.

The wonderfully named Philip Hermogenes Calderon painted his “Lord, Thy Will Be Done” in 1855. This quotation is derived from the Gospel account of what became the Lord’s Prayer, and has subsequently been used on many Christian religious occasions.

A young mother cradles her baby on her lap, looking up to the left. She’s living in difficult circumstances, but isn’t destitute, and wears a wedding ring on her left hand. The carpet is badly worn, and the coal scuttle empty, but there’s a loaf of bread on the table: she has her ‘daily bread’, another reference to the Lord’s Prayer. A portrait of a fine young man hangs above the mantlepiece, indicating her husband and the baby’s father is currently absent on military service. Several issues of The Times newspaper are scattered on the floor at the right, as if the woman has been following news of a military campaign overseas. Under the table is a letter, most probably from her husband.

Christian Krohg’s The Struggle for Existence, also translated as The Struggle for Survival from 1889 shows Karl Johan Street in Oslo in the depths of winter, almost deserted except for a tight-packed crowd of poor women and children queuing for free bread. These people are wrapped up in patched and tatty clothing, clutching baskets and other containers in which to put the food. A disembodied hand is passing a single bread roll out to them, from within the pillars at the left edge. That was yesterday’s bread; now stale, the baker is giving it away only because he cannot sell it.

Next week I will show paintings of bread as food.