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Today — 22 November 2025Main stream

Painting along the Loing: Grez

By: hoakley
22 November 2025 at 20:30

One of the small villages on the southern edge of the Forest of Fontainebleau grew into an artist’s colony in the last quarter of the nineteenth century. Grez-sur-Loing is on the bend of the River Loing where it turns to the east to head for Moret-sur-Loing and empty into the River Seine at Saint-Mammès. The village lies between the road north from Nemours to Fontainebleau, and the river meandering in its floodplain.

Among those who painted there are John Singer Sargent, Carl Larsson who met his wife there, Bruno Liljefors the Swedish animal painter, PS Krøyer and other Nordic Impressionists of the Skagen group, Theodore Robinson and Willard Metcalf from the US, and the Glasgow Boys.

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Louis Welden Hawkins (1849–1910), A Peasant Woman (c 1880), further details not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Like many others, the British artist Louis Welden Hawkins came to Grez from Paris, in his case by about 1880. He painted rural scenes in a style strongly reminiscent of Jules Bastien-Lepage, who was only slightly older than Hawkins, and at the time making a great impression at the Salon. This is Hawkins’ Peasant Woman from about 1880.

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Louis Welden Hawkins (1849–1910), Orphans (1881), oil on canvas, 125 x 160 cm, Musée d’Orsay, Paris. Wikimedia Commons.

Hawkins’ first success came with Orphans (1881), which shares Bastien-Lepage’s muted colours, attributed to the light supposedly peculiar to Grez. A young brother and sister are in a neglected graveyard, looking together at a pauper’s grave, apparently of one or both of their parents. This painting was awarded a third-class medal at the Salon that year, and marked the start of a run of his paintings exhibited at the following three Salons. It was purchased by the state in 1887 for 10,000 francs, and was also exhibited at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900.

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Louis Welden Hawkins (1849–1910), The Last Step (c 1882), oil on canvas, 129.5 x 83.8 cm, Owens Art Gallery, Mount Allison University, Sackville, Canada. The Athenaeum.

Hawkins continued this style in The Last Step (c 1882), showing an elderly woman walking slowly with a stick in what may be the same graveyard. In the distance, a gravedigger is digging a new grave through the stony soil. The two engage in conversation, probably discussing where she will be buried in the not too distant future.

By 1882, the colony at Grez was becoming popular with Nordic painters who were developing their skills in France. Among them were the Swedish artists Carl Larsson and Karin Bergöö, who met there and later married.

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Carl Larsson (1853–1919), The Old Man and the Nursery Garden (1883), watercolour, 115 x 83 cm, Nationalmuseum, Stockholm, Sweden. Courtesy of Nationalmuseum, via Wikimedia Commons.

Larsson’s paintings from Grez also appear to have been influenced by Jules Bastien-Lepage. His watercolour of The Old Man and the Nursery Garden from 1883 shows similar muted colours, and common rural themes.

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Carl Larsson (1853–1919), The Bride (1883), further details not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Larsson painted this touching portrait of The Bride at Grez the same year. It almost certainly shows his wife Karin, and was presumably intended as a wedding gift to her.

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Carl Larsson (1853–1919), À la Campagne (In the Country) (1883), further details not known. Wikimedia Commons.

In the Country (1883) is typical of a number of views that Larsson painted of the rural poor in and around Grez, in the same realist style with soft colours. That year, he had his first painting accepted by the Paris Salon, and was getting valuable commissions for book illustrations.

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Carl Larsson (1853–1919) Autumn (1884), watercolour, 92 x 60 cm, Nationalmuseum, Stockholm, Sweden. Courtesy of Nationalmuseum, via Wikimedia Commons.

The single figure in Larsson’s watercolour Autumn (1884) is dressed anachronistically in clothing from the previous century. This was most probably to please the Salon jury, as eighteenth century scenes were fashionable at the time. Its setting at Grez and his soft realism combine to make this one of his finest watercolours of this period.

Well before the Glasgow Boys came, John Lavery visited from Glasgow. Although he was born in Belfast, he moved to Glasgow when he was a child. After initially attending the Haldane Academy in Glasgow, he went to Paris in the early 1880s, where he was a student at the Académie Julian, where he was influenced by Jules Bastien-Lepage and Millet, and painted at Grez-sur-Loing in 1884.

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John Lavery (1856–1941), The Principal Street at Grez (1884), further details not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Lavery’s plein air oil sketch of The Principal Street at Grez from 1884 shows one of the many artists at work in the village, which had become popular internationally. Although following the course recommended for Naturalist painters, Lavery’s style is here thoroughly Impressionist.

At its height, Grez drew artists from all over the world, including some of the pioneers from Japan. In 1889 Asai Chū founded the first group of western-style (yōga) painters in Japan, and in 1898 was appointed professor of the forerunner of the Tokyo University of the Arts. In 1900 he moved to Paris for two years of study of Impressionism, and went to Grez to paint en plein air.

Asai Chū, Washing Place in Grez-sur-Loing (1901), oil on canvas, 33.3 x 45.5 cm, Bridgestone Museum of Art, Tokyo. Wikimedia Commons.
Asai Chū, Washing Place in Grez-sur-Loing (1901), oil on canvas, 33.3 x 45.5 cm, Bridgestone Museum of Art, Tokyo. Wikimedia Commons.

His Washing Place in Grez-sur-Loing shows small huts used by the village women to wash laundry in 1901.

Asai Chū, Bridge in Grez-sur-Loing (1902), watercolour on paper, 28.4 x 43.5 cm, Bridgestone Museum of Art, Tokyo. Wikimedia Commons.
Asai Chū, Bridge in Grez-sur-Loing (1902), watercolour on paper, 28.4 x 43.5 cm, Bridgestone Museum of Art, Tokyo. Wikimedia Commons.

The following year he painted this Bridge in Grez-sur-Loing before returning to Japan.

For much of that time, just over 12 km (7 miles) downstream, one of the great landscape artists of French Impressionism had been painting alone.

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