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The fleeting brilliance of crimson

By: hoakley
13 July 2025 at 19:30

For all its toxicity, vermilion proved an enduring red, unlike less dangerous pigments such as crimson, with its natural origin.

People have dyed their clothes and other fabrics using vegetable colourants for as long as we have evidence. Dyes are quite unsuitable for use in durable paintings: instead of solutions of small molecules of colourant that work well applied to fabrics and paper, we much prefer to paint using pigments, in which the colourant is packaged and protected in much larger particles.

One of the early challenges in the history of art materials was the transformation of vegetable dyes into pigments, in a process generally known as laking. The need was simple: take a vegetable dye such as the crimson derived from Madder plants, and fix it into pigment particles that can be dispersed in gum solution for watercolour, or a drying oil medium.

Neither the Romans nor the Greeks appear to have solved this on any scale, but at some time between the Classical civilisations and the pre-Renaissance, someone discovered that aluminium salts will combine with the colourants in madder extract and make a pigment suitable for fine art painting, in madder lake.

Over time, many different recipes for the preparation of madder lakes were evolved. By using different species of Madder plant, adjusting the method of extracting the colourants from its root, and using different salts for the laking process, madder lakes covered a broad range of hues from pale purples through pinks to brilliant scarlet.

As a result, madder lakes were very widely used, and generally sought-after, except that they weren’t lightfast, even when protected in an oil paint film, and many faded rapidly, over months or just a few years.

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Friedrich Herlin (c 1425/30–1500), High Altar (1466), media and dimensions not known, St.Jakob, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany. © José Luiz Bernardes Ribeiro / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Friedrich Herlin’s High Altar made for the church of St Jacob in Rothenburg in 1466 is one of the earliest paintings in which madder lake has been demonstrated. Its abundant reds seem to have stood the test of time, although because Herlin’s painting was normally stored with its wings closed, its madder lakes will have had limited exposure to bright daylight.

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Friedrich Herlin (c 1425/30–1500), The Presentation of Christ in the Temple, from High Altar (1466), media and dimensions not known, St.Jakob, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany. Image by Wolfgang Sauber, via Wikimedia Commons.

The two or three different shades of red used by Herlin in the panel of The Presentation of Christ in the Temple are still brilliant, although something odd appears to have happened in the blue robes of the Virgin Mary.

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Master of the Life of the Virgin (Workshop of), The Mass of Saint Hubert: Right Hand Shutter of the Werden Altarpiece (c 1485-90), oil on canvas, transferred from wood, 123.2 x 83.2 cm, The National Gallery (bought, 1854), London. Courtesy of and © The National Gallery, London.

The Mass of Saint Hubert, the right hand shutter of the Werden Altarpiece from about 1485-90, has also retained its deep madder lake reds.

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Altobello Melone (c 1490-1543), Christ Carrying the Cross (c 1515), oil on wood, 61 x 46.5 cm, The National Gallery (bought, 1993), London. Courtesy of and © The National Gallery, London.

Madder red was mixed with a little lead-tin yellow for the sleeve (at least) in Altobello Melone’s Christ Carrying the Cross, dating back to about 1515.

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Niklaus Manuel (1484–1530), Demons Tormenting St. Anthony, left wing outside from the Antonius Altar (1520), oil on panel, width 135 cm, Kunstmuseum Bern, Bern, Switzerland. Wikimedia Commons.

Niklaus Manuel’s Demons Tormenting St. Anthony, on the left wing outside from the Antonius Altar of 1520, features several different reds, at least one of which contains madder lake as its main pigment. It also appears that some of those reds may have faded: Saint Anthony’s cloak looks pale and anaemic, for example.

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Johannes Vermeer (1632–1675), Christ in the House of Martha and Mary (c 1654-56), oil on canvas, 158.5 x 141.5 cm, The National Gallery of Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland. Wikimedia Commons.

Jan Vermeer’s Christ in the House of Martha and Mary from about 1654-56 is a good example of the use of madder lake by one of the Dutch Masters.

When industrial chemistry started to look for improved dyes and pigments in the nineteenth century, attention turned to the humble Madder, in an attempt to isolate the most lightfast components of its root extract, then to synthesise them on an industrial scale.

The main colourant, alizarin, was isolated in impure form in 1826, following which rose-red alizarin lakes became available. The other major colourant, purpurin, was more of a mystery, as little was found in fresh root extract, but it was generated during manufacture and storage; its purification took a few decades longer to achieve.

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Ignace-Henri-Jean-Théodore Fantin-Latour (1836-1904), Still Life with Chrysanthemums (1862), oil on canvas, 46 x 55.6 cm, The Philadelphia Museum of Art (John G. Johnson Collection, 1917), Philadelphia, PA. Courtesy of The Philadelphia Museum of Art.

I suspect that the delicate reds in Henri Fantin-Latour’s Still Life with Chrysanthemums (1862) owe much of their colour to partially-purified alizarin crimson derived from Madder root.

Alizarin was first synthesised in about 1869, became available as a pigment in its own right from 1891, and was considered to be both more consistent in its colour and more lightfast. However, its lightfastness didn’t prove as good as had been hoped, and since the late twentieth century the fading of alizarin crimson has been used in lightfastness testing to demonstrate that sufficient light exposure has occurred. It has effectively become the benchmark for non-lightfastness.

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Paint patches: QoR watercolour

Modern professional watercolour ranges, here those from QoR, often include a paint designated as Permanent Alizarin Crimson, which doesn’t contain alizarin or any other derivative of the Madder plant.

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Paint patches: Winsor & Newton Artists’ Watercolour
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Paint patches: Winsor & Newton Artists’ Watercolour Sticks

A few ranges, including Winsor & Newton Artists’ Watercolour Sticks, do still offer genuine alizarin crimson (PR83). Unless you are content for that colour to fade on exposure to light, you should avoid using it in any significant work.

This is true even in oil paints, where ranges such as Williamsburg’s offer a Permanent Crimson using a more lightfast pigment.

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Paint patches: Williamsburg Oils

It’s a great pity that the crimson used by Vermeer and extensively by JMW Turner has such fugitive colour. At least we now have several excellent alternatives.

Reference

Helmut Schweppe and John Winter (1997) Artists’ Pigments, vol 3, ed Elisabeth West Fitzhugh, Archetype. ISBN 978 1 904982 76 0.

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