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Interiors by Design: Dressing table

By: hoakley
4 April 2025 at 19:30

Originally known as a toilet table, or simply a toilet, dressing tables or vanities featured near the beds of ladies from the late seventeenth century. They are a fusion of storage boxes used for cosmetics and jewellery, a small flat surface on which to place their contents, and the inevitable mirror to check that she looked right. By the eighteenth century they were made popular by royal mistresses including the Marquise de Pompadour, and became integrated into the morning reception phase of the lady’s day.

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William Hogarth (1697–1764), Marriage A-la-Mode: 4, The Toilette (c 1743), oil on canvas, 70.5 × 90.8 cm, The National Gallery, London. Courtesy of The National Gallery London, inventory NG116.

William Hogarth even titles the fourth painting in his moralising narrative series Marriage A-la-Mode, The Toilette (c 1743). The Countess Squander is being entertained while completing her dressing and preparations for the day. To the right of the Countess, Silvertongue rests at ease, his feet uncouthly laid on the sofa, clearly intimate with her. He is offering her a ticket to a masquerade ball, where no doubt he will meet her. His left hand gestures towards a painted screen showing such a masquerade.

At the left an Italian castrato (by his wig and jewellery) sings to a flute accompaniment. The rest of the room are disinterested, apart from a woman in white, who is swooning at the singer. The Countess’s bedchamber is behind the pale red drapes at the rear left, and to the right of centre is a typical dressing table with a mirror.

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Herman Frederik Carel ten Kate (1822–1891), The Chaperone (1858), oil on panel, 15 x 19 cm, location not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Herman Frederik Carel ten Kate’s Chaperone (1858) recreates an interior from a similar period. A suitor clutching his tricorn hat and walking stick is chatting up a young woman with her companion and moral guard. Behind her chair is a dressing table with a similar layout to Hogarth’s.

Over the next century, dressing tables were modernised and adopted by even the middle classes.

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Edgar Degas (1834–1917), Woman Drying Herself after the Bath (c 1885, or 1876-77), pastel over monotype, 43 × 58 cm, Norton Simon Museum, Pasadena, CA. Wikimedia Commons.

Edgar Degas’ Woman Drying Herself after the Bath is one his first works showing a woman bathing, dating from 1876-77. It’s also one of the few in this series setting the woman in a broader context, here a plain and simple bedroom with a single bed. The woman, wearing only bright red ‘mule’ slippers, stands just behind the shallow metal tub, watching herself in the mirror of her dressing table, as she dries her body with a towel. On its shelf is a small range of cosmetics, with the mandatory mirror behind.

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Félix Vallotton (1865–1925), Misia at Her Dressing Table (1898), distemper on cardboard, 36 x 29 cm, Musée d’Orsay, Paris. Wikimedia Commons.

Félix Vallotton affords us a glimpse into the private life of one of the most influential patrons and muses of the day, in his Misia at Her Dressing Table from 1898. Her first marriage was to her cousin Thadée Natanson, who had socialist ideals and lived in artistic circles. The Natansons entertained Marcel Proust, Stéphane Mallarmé, André Gide, and Claude Debussy, but they were closest to their painter friends: Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Odilon Redon, Paul Signac, and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

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Frederick Carl Frieseke (1874–1939), Nude Seated at Her Dressing Table (1909), oil on canvas, 162.3 x 131.1 cm, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington, DC. Wikimedia Commons.

For Frederick Carl Frieseke a Nude Seated at Her Dressing Table (1909) is an opportunity for mirror-play. This vanity is more decorative than functional, with curves, a glass top and a painted porcelain figure.

Pierre Bonnard’s domestic interiors are rich with dressing tables, and inventive mirror-play. I show here just two examples.

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Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947), El Tocador (The Dressing Table) (1908), oil on panel, 52 x 45 cm, Musée d’Orsay, Paris. The Athenaeum.

In Bonnard’s El Tocador, which means The Dressing Table (1908), his partner Marthe’s headless torso is seen only in reflection. The direct view is of the large bowl and pitcher she used to wash herself.

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Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947), The Bathroom Mirror (1914), oil on canvas, 72 x 88.5 cm, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY. The Athenaeum.

In 1914, Bonnard moved back for a wider view in The Bathroom Mirror. Marthe’s reflection is now but a small image within the image, showing her sat on the side of the bed, with a bedspread matching the red floral pattern of the drapes around her dressing table. Bonnard has worked his usual vanishing trick for himself, and a vertical mirror at the right adds a curiously dark reflection of the room.

The Toilet exhibited 1914 by Henry Tonks 1862-1937
Henry Tonks (1862-1937), The Toilet (1914), pastel on paper, 33 x 44.1 cm, The Tate Gallery (Presented by Geoffrey Blackwell through the Contemporary Art Society 1915), London. © The Tate Gallery and Photographic Rights © Tate (2016), CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 (Unported), http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/tonks-the-toilet-n03016

Henry Tonks’ The Toilet from the same year separates his nude from her dressing table, and shuns mirror-play altogether.

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Félix Vallotton (1865–1925), Coquèterie (Sauciness) (1911), oil on canvas, 89 x 116 cm, Private collection. Wikimedia Commons.

Félix Vallotton’s Coquèterie (Sauciness) from 1911 shows a young woman still undressed in her white chemise, her unmade bed behind. She looks at herself in the mirror of a small dressing table with that mirror mounted in its lift-up lid, thinking what clothing she should wear from those scattered around.

Interiors by Design: Writing desks

By: hoakley
27 March 2025 at 20:30

Even for those well versed in the act of writing, it usually demanded a formal technique and took place at a dedicated piece of furniture, a writing desk. That often provided storage for the quills, pens and ink required, as well as a stock of paper. They could also be more elaborate and house a complete office with correspondence sorted into drawers, and pigeonholes that much later were models for software mailboxes. For the wealthy these more elaborate writing desks might be crafted by a joiner using exotic woods into a large bureau.

Antonello da Messina, Saint Jerome in his Study (c 1475), oil on lime, 45.7 x 36.2 cm, The National Gallery, London. Wikimedia Commons.
Antonello da Messina (c 1430–1479), Saint Jerome in his Study (c 1475), oil on lime wood, 45.7 x 36.2 cm, The National Gallery, London. Wikimedia Commons.

Antonello da Messina’s groundbreaking oil painting of Saint Jerome in his Study from around 1475 features an integrated office with shelving, although there are few books visible.

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Gerard ter Borch (1617–1681), Woman Writing a Letter (c 1655), oil on panel, 39 x 29.5 cm, Koninklijk Kabinet van Schilderijen Mauritshuis, The Hague, The Netherlands. Wikimedia Commons.

Gerard ter Borch’s Woman Writing a Letter from about 1655 shows a more modest desk doubling as a table. Its heavy decorated table cover has been pushed back to make room for the quill, ink-pot, and letter. Behind the woman is her bed, surrounded by heavy drapery, and at the lower right is the brilliant red flash of the seat.

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Johannes Vermeer (1632–1675), A Lady Writing a Letter (1665-1666), oil on canvas, 45 × 39.9 cm, National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC. Wikimedia Commons.

Vermeer painted at least two works showing women writing, of which the earlier is A Lady Writing a Letter from 1665-1666. The fur trimmings on her golden jacket confirm that this is no country bumpkin, but the lady of an affluent and well-educated house. Rather than looking down at her quill, she stares the viewer out, her faint smile of confidence lit by sunlight coming through the window off to the left. This illustrates the importance of placing a writing table or desk where it can be lit well by daylight, hence an association between writing desks and windows.

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Matthäus Kern (1801–1852), A Study Interior at St. Polten (1837), brush and watercolor on white wove paper, dimensions not known, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York, NY. Wikimedia Commons.

Matthäus Kern’s watercolour showing A Study Interior at St. Polten (1837) reveals two contrasting types of writing desk: that at the right edge has a drawer and pigeonholes above to order papers and correspondence, while the long desk to the left of it has books, papers and writing instruments laid out across its flat surface, and a folding extension leaf to accommodate even more.

Kit's Writing Lesson 1852 by Robert Braithwaite Martineau 1826-1869
Robert Braithwaite Martineau (1826–1869), Kit’s Writing Lesson (1852), oil on canvas, 52.1 x 70.5 cm, The Tate Gallery (Presented by Mrs Phyllis Tillyard 1955), London. Photographic Rights © Tate 2016, CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 (Unported), http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/martineau-kits-writing-lesson-t00011

Robert Braithwaite Martineau’s painting of Kit’s Writing Lesson from 1852 shows this young character from Charles Dickens’ novel The Old Curiosity Shop struggling to write with a more modern dip pen. Sewing next to Kit Nubbles is the orphaned heroine Nell Trent, who is teaching him to write in the shop where he works.

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Lesser Ury (1861–1931), Woman at a Writing-Desk (1898), oil on canvas, 71 x 51.5 cm, Alte Nationalgalerie, Berlin, Germany. Wikimedia Commons.

Lesser Ury’s Woman at a Writing-Desk from 1898 is an everyday interior with a woman, a pianist perhaps, sitting writing at her bureau-style desk. The popularity of bureaux was perhaps one mark of the achievement of education.

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Paul César Helleu (1859–1927), Madame Paul Helleu Seated at Her Secretaire, Seen from the Back (c 1900), oil on canvas, 80.7 x 64.8 cm, Private collection. The Athenaeum.

Paul Helleu’s portrait of Madame Paul Helleu Seated at Her Secretaire, Seen from the Back from about 1900 is an unconventional view of his wife, who appears dressed for a social engagement rather than catching up with her letter-writing.

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Félix Vallotton (1865–1925), Woman Reading in an Interior (1904), oil on board, 60.3 x 34.6 cm, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, TX. Wikimedia Commons.

There’s dispute as to whether this painting by Félix Vallotton shows a Woman Reading in an Interior, as given by its French title, or a woman writing. Vallotton painted this in 1904, and its single figure doesn’t show her face as she sits at her small bureau, backlit by the light streaming in through the window.

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Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947), The Letter (c 1906), oil on canvas, 55 x 47 cm, The National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC. The Athenaeum.

Pierre Bonnard painted a few interiors featuring a woman writing. The Letter from about 1906 is a conventional portrait of a well-dressed woman sitting at a desk or table to write a letter, and may have used Anita Champagne as the model. Her right hand holds a fountain pen with its own ink reservoir, a big step forward from the quill.

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William McGregor Paxton (1869–1941), The New Necklace (1910), oil on canvas, 91.8 x 73.0 cm, The Museum of Fine Arts Boston (Zoe Oliver Sherman Collection), Boston, MA. Image courtesy of The Museum of Fine Arts Boston.

The New Necklace (1910) is one of William McGregor Paxton’s best-known paintings, and perhaps his most intriguing open narrative. A younger woman is sat at a narrow bureau writing. She has turned her chair so that she can reach behind and hold out her left hand to receive the new necklace of the title. This is being lowered into her hand by a slightly older woman, in a dark blue-green dress, whose face and eyes are cast down, and her left hand rests against her chin. The writing desk of this bureau is hinged so that it stores vertically and encloses the drawers inside.

A last aside: not one of these writers appears to be holding their quill or pen in their left hand. Teachers of the past weren’t as accommodating.

Interiors by Design: Carpets

By: hoakley
20 February 2025 at 20:30

Although of ancient origin, in Europe the idea of laying carpet on the floor is surprisingly recent. Woven and backed textiles resembling modern carpets appear to have originated in the Caucasian area and in Anatolia, and first made their way to western Europe with the Crusades. It was another seven centuries before Europeans realised they weren’t only intended to be hung from walls or placed on tables. Their wider adoption as floor coverings may have been limited by the difficulties in cleaning by beating them outdoors.

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Jean-Léon Gérôme (1824–1904), The Carpet Merchant (of Cairo) (1887), oil on canvas, 83.4 x 64.7 cm, Minneapolis Institute of Art, Minneapolis, MN. Wikimedia Commons.

Jean-Léon Gérôme’s Carpet Merchant (of Cairo) from 1887 shows a contemporary trading scene in almost photographic detail. Standing on and among crumpled up carpets in this corner of a souk is a group of traders and their customers, admiring one particularly fine example hanging from a balcony as they haggle over price. As an image within an image, Gérôme paints the calligraphic design of the carpet in painstaking detail.

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Georges Rochegrosse (1859–1938), The Palace Entertainment (date not known), oil on canvas, further details not known. The Athenaeum.

You could easily mistake Georges Rochegrosse’s undated Palace Entertainment for another by his contemporary Gérôme, although by this time (the period 1894-1914) Rochegrosse was often far more painterly in his style. It shows a dancer with musical group entertaining some Algerian men, her routine involving a pair of short swords. Under her feet is a large and brilliant scarlet carpet.

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Osman Hamdi Bey (1842–1910), Kur’an Tilaveti (Reciting the Quran) (1910), oil, 53 x 72.5 cm, Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Istanbul, Turkey. Wikimedia Commons.

Carpets were also in widespread use as floor coverings throughout Turkey and the Middle East, as shown in Osman Hamdi Bey’s painting of Reciting the Quran from 1910. At its foot is a wonderful deep blue carpet.

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Philip Hermogenes Calderon (1833–1898), “Lord, Thy Will Be Done” (1855), oil on canvas, 55.9 x 46.4 cm, The Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, CT. Wikimedia Commons.

In Philip Hermogenes Calderon’s “Lord, Thy Will Be Done” from 1855, the small and threadbare piece of carpet tells you more about this young mother’s financial and social status than any other object in the room.

Among the early depictions of floor carpets is James Abbott McNeill Whistler’s chinoiserie interior painted in 1863-65, which might give rise to geographical confusion.

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James Abbott McNeill Whistler (1834–1903), The Princess from the Land of Porcelain (1863-65), oil on canvas, 201.5 x 116.1 cm, Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC. Wikimedia Commons.

Whistler’s The Princess from the Land of Porcelain (1863-65), from his Peacock Room, is shown above and in the detail below. The model’s features are European rather than Oriental (she was actually from an Italian family), but she’s wearing a fine silk kimono and holding a fan. Behind her is a painted screen from Japan, and under her feet is a lush white and blue carpet.

This is the painting at the focal point of the lavish dining room of the London house of Frederick Richards Leyland, a shipping magnate. Whistler and Leyland fell out over changes the artist made to the original design, and Whistler was forced into bankruptcy as a result. The contents of the room were purchased in 1904, moved to the USA, and exhibited in the Freer Gallery in Washington, DC, from 1923.

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James Abbott McNeill Whistler (1834–1903), The Princess from the Land of Porcelain (detail) (1863-65), oil on canvas, dimensions not known, Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC. Wikimedia Commons.
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Giovanni Boldini (1842–1931), Peaceful Days (The Music Lesson) (1875), oil on canvas, 35.5 × 25.4 cm, Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, MA. Wikimedia Commons.

In Giovanni Boldini’s Peaceful Days (The Music Lesson) from 1875, a younger boy sits on a vividly decorated carpet studying an epée, with a cello behind him. Judging by their dress and surroundings, these two are at least comfortably off, and certainly well-carpeted.

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John William Waterhouse (1849–1917), Dolce Far Niente (The White Feather Fan) (1879), oil on canvas, 49.6 x 36.2 cm, Private collection. Wikimedia Commons.

There’s also something indulgent and sensuous about lying back on an exotic carpet, in the way that this woman is in John William Waterhouse’s Dolce Far Niente or The White Feather Fan (1879). She’s plucking feathers from the fan and watching them rise through the air, a perfect way to while away the time, it seems.

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William Merritt Chase (1849–1916), Studio Interior (c 1882), oil on canvas, 71.3 x 101.9 cm, Brooklyn Museum, New York, NY. Wikimedia Commons.

William Merritt Chase’s paintings of his studio acted as a shop window for prospective customers. In his Studio Interior from about 1882, a fashionably dressed young woman is glancing through a huge bound collation of Chase’s work, sat by a grand carved wooden sideboard, decorated with almost outlandish objects including a model ship, a lute, and sundry objets d’art. Under her feet is a wonderful blue carpet, no doubt ready to transport her into the scenes shown in Chase’s book.

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Félix Vallotton (1865–1925), Interior, Bedroom with Two Figures (1904), oil on cardboard, 61.5 × 56 cm, Hermitage Museum Государственный Эрмитаж, Saint Petersburg, Russia. Wikimedia Commons.

By the turn of the century, and Félix Vallotton’s disturbing domestic scenes such as Interior, Bedroom with Two Figures (1904), the prosperous were having wall-to-wall carpets fitted in their houses. The lady of the house is standing on a patterned carpet that runs under the bed, and at the left extends to the wall.

Colours and patterns soon became vibrant if not gaudy.

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Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947), Nude in Bathtub (c 1938-41), oil on canvas, 121.9 x 151.1 cm, Carnegie Museum of Art, Pittsburgh, PA. The Athenaeum.

In Pierre Bonnard’s Nude in Bathtub from about 1938-41, the flooring dazzles, and Marthe’s brown dog has its own mat.

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Eric Ravilious (1903–1942), Farmhouse Bedroom (1939), watercolour, further details not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Eric Ravilious’ Farmhouse Bedroom (1939) overwhelms the viewer with the patterns in its flooring that contradict rather than complement its walls.

Reading Visual Art: 184 Just sewing

By: hoakley
22 January 2025 at 20:30

In the first of these two articles considering the reading of sewing in paintings, I looked at sewing for a purpose. More commonly, sewing is seen in its own right, as an activity performed almost exclusively by women of every age and class.

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Anna Ancher (1859–1935), Two Little Girls Being Taught How to Sew (1910), media not known, 64 x 54.4 cm, Skagens Museum, Skagen, Denmark. Wikimedia Commons.

In Anna Ancher’s Two Little Girls Being Taught How to Sew from 1910, the girls’ mother/teacher stands sewing in the rich light from a window to the right. Cast shadows on the plain pale lemon wall behind are complex: the sun is low in the sky, and those shadows fall from a large houseplant at the right, and external branches too.

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Hans Andersen Brendekilde (1857–1942), Two Girls with Needlework Sitting in a Farmyard (1902), oil on canvas, 49 x 60 cm, location not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Hans Andersen Brendekilde’s sentimental rustic scene of Two Girls with Needlework Sitting in a Farmyard (1902) shows two young girls who are clean, well-dressed, and engaged in this light domestic task typical of the middle class. In the distance is a farmyard cat, and a woman is kneeling on a doorstep giving it a good scrub.

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Eugene de Blaas (1843–1932), The Friendly Gossips (1901), oil on canvas, 97.8 × 121.9 cm, Private collection. Wikimedia Commons.

Sewing could also be a social activity, as seen in Eugene de Blaas’ Friendly Gossips from 1901. These three young women chat and joke together while they work through their sewing and repair baskets. They’re most probably unmarried daughter(s) and friend(s) within a middle class home, and the young man peering cautiously round the door looks as if he has come to woo one of them.

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Gustave Caillebotte (1848–1894), Portraits in the Countryside (1876), oil on canvas, 95 × 111 cm, Musée Baron Gérard, Bayeux, France. Wikimedia Commons.

Women of wealthy families appear to have spent much of their time engaged in activities intended to pass the time. Gustave Caillebotte’s Portraits in the Countryside (1876) shows, from left to right, the artist’s cousin Marie, his aunt, a family friend Madame Hue, and the artist’s mother.

Three of the four are engaged in needlework, although it isn’t clear precisely what. Caillebotte’s mother is the exception: sitting in the distance, she is reading a book. Not only are these women sewing their lives away, waiting for the next event on their social calendar, but they sit apart, and concentrate on their work, without talking to one another. Their sewing provides them with a small world of their own, whose only hurt could be the infrequent prick of a needle.

For others, sewing is their profession.

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Hans Best (1874–1942), Sewing Women in the Room (date not known), oil on canvas, 54 × 73.5 cm, location not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Judging by the sheer volume of garments in Hans Best’s undated Sewing Women in the Room, these two women are professional seamstresses working at home, sharing the single sewing machine.

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Anna Ancher (1859–1935), Sewing a Dress for a Costume Party (1920), further details not known. Wikimedia Commons.

Anna Ancher makes the most of the light in her Sewing a Dress for a Costume Party of 1920. These three women look rather older than the average seamstress, and they’re working with the materials for a single dress. One of them performs the larger-scale sewing at the machine, while the others progress the manual work.

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Karl Armbrust (1867-1928), Interior of a Sewing Mill with Seamstresses at Work (1927), media and dimensions not known, Deutsches Historisches Museum Berlin, Berlin, Germany. Wikimedia Commons.

With sewing machines, clothing could also be made on a more industrial scale. When sewing by hand, homeworking had been the order of the day, and there’s no value in pooling those workers into a factory. Once seamstresses were working with sewing machines, the situation was reversed, and many came to be employed in factories or sewing mills. Karl Armbrust’s Interior of a Sewing Mill with Seamstresses at Work from 1927 shows what became commonplace in garment manufacture. These women didn’t need the skills of those sewing by hand, and were consequently paid a pittance.

I conclude with two oddities.

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Paul Gauguin (1848–1903), Study of a Nude (Suzanne Sewing) (1880), oil on canvas, 114.5 cm x 79.5 cm, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen, Denmark. Wikimedia Commons.

Paul Gauguin’s Study of a Nude (Suzanne Sewing) from 1880 is thoroughly odd: the model is undeniably sewing, with a thimble on the middle finger of her right hand, so why is she not clothed? It’s perhaps understandable that the artist’s wife is recorded as refusing to allow this painting to be hung on the wall of their home.

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Félix Vallotton (1865–1925), Interior, Bedroom with Two Figures (1904), oil on cardboard, 61.5 × 56 cm, Hermitage Museum Государственный Эрмитаж, Saint Petersburg, Russia. Wikimedia Commons.

Félix Vallotton’s Interior, Bedroom with Two Figures from 1904 is one of his series of disturbing domestic interiors, with an incomplete narrative. The lady of the house is standing over her maid as the latter is sewing up her evening gown, in her bedroom. The mistress stands with her back to the viewer, and her face is only revealed in her reflection in the large mirror on the wardrobe at the back of the room, where the maid is all but invisible. These three figures appear in perspective recession, and to the right of the wardrobe is a doorway, presumably leading through to the master’s bedroom. Are these just running repairs made before or after a night out, or is there something else going on?

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